![]() This device clamps around any wire you can access, without having to disconnect or otherwise disturb the circuit. Usually though, these different paths are something you want to check once in a while, or when something appears to be not working correctly.įor that, a DC clamp ammeter is far more useful. If you want to continuously monitor the current going and coming from several different power sources and loads, you will need several shunts and several meters (or a way to switch between them). The physical location of the shunt does not matter, but it should be the last thing connected between the negative battery post and any other wiring. Question is for the ammeter shunt for the charging system coming from the truck: Should I install the shunt near to where in enters the camper or try and trace it to the nearest location to the battery before it reaches the distribution block? amps leaving the house batteries to run lights/stereo/etc. amps amps going to the house batteries via the generator amps going to the house batteries via the truck alternator The next project on my list is installing a few ammeters. It almost seems like they change their wiring layout day to day.Īnyways, I've decided to try and create my own wiring diagram the best I can while I work away on a few other project I would like to do. ![]() ![]() I was very surprised the tech guy at Northwood was totally clueless when I asked them for a wiring diagram or suggestions as to where various wires went/came from. After hours of tracing wires, calling northwood and google'ing I finally was able to resolve an issue I was having with my 2013 Arctic Fox 990 not charging the house batteries via the truck. ![]()
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